Stylaster

Introduction to Stylaster Coral

Stylaster, commonly known as Lace Coral, Hydrocoral, or Fire Coral’s Gentle Cousin, is a non-photosynthetic hydrocoral admired for its intricate, lace-like branching skeleton and pastel coloration. Typically pink, orange, red, or white, Stylaster adds a stunning, natural aesthetic to reef aquariums but requires specialized care due to its feeding and flow needs.

Unlike traditional stony corals, Stylaster belongs to the Hydrozoan class, meaning it’s more closely related to hydroids and fire corals than to true Scleractinian (stony) corals. It lacks zooxanthellae—the symbiotic algae most corals depend on for photosynthesis—and therefore relies entirely on external feeding for nutrition.

Stylaster is best suited for advanced aquarists who can maintain stable conditions, consistent feeding, and excellent water quality.

Natural Habitat and Location in the Wild

Stylaster species are found throughout the Indo-Pacific, Caribbean, and Eastern Pacific regions, including Australia, Fiji, Hawaii, the Red Sea, and the Great Barrier Reef. They inhabit deep reef slopes, shaded crevices, and caves, often thriving at depths where light penetration is minimal but planktonic food is abundant.

Why Choose Stylaster for Your Reef Tank?

• Exquisite, lace-like beauty – Adds natural structure and elegance.
• Unique non-photosynthetic coral – Distinct care requirements for advanced reefers.
• Rare and fascinating species – Great for collectors seeking diversity.
• Peaceful temperament – Does not engage in aggressive coral warfare.

Optimal Water Parameters

Because Stylaster does not photosynthesize, maintaining low but stable nutrient levels is essential to prevent algae growth while supporting filter-feeding life.

Tank Size and Setup

• Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons or larger.
• Placement: Shaded or low-light areas such as caves, overhangs, or vertical rock faces.
• Substrate Considerations: Attach securely to live rock or a shaded ledge using reef-safe glue.

Stylaster’s delicate branches are easily damaged, so ensure a stable, low-traffic placement within the tank.

Lighting Requirements

Stylaster is non-photosynthetic and does not rely on light for energy.

• Lighting: Low to shaded lighting conditions are best.
• PAR Range: 0–50 PAR
• Lighting Type: Any full-spectrum reef light can be used; avoid direct or intense illumination.

High-intensity lighting may cause tissue bleaching or algae overgrowth, both of which can suffocate the coral.

Water Flow and Circulation

• Moderate to strong, indirect flow is essential to deliver food particles and remove waste.
• Randomized flow patterns help ensure all branches receive nutrients evenly.
• Avoid laminar flow that can damage delicate branches or stress tissue.

Consistent flow keeps detritus and algae from accumulating on the coral’s structure.

Feeding and Nutrition

Stylaster is non-photosynthetic and relies solely on suspended microfauna and particulate food. Regular, small feedings are key to survival.

• Preferred Foods: Phytoplankton, rotifers, marine snow, powdered coral foods, and dissolved organic matter.
• Feeding Frequency: Daily or at least 4–5 times per week for optimal health.
• Feeding Method: Target feeding with a pipette or broadcast feeding using a dosing pump for constant nutrition.

Because Stylaster cannot store energy through photosynthesis, consistent feeding is more critical than large, infrequent meals.

Tank Mates and Compatibility

• Safe Companions: Peaceful fish like gobies, firefish, and small wrasses; invertebrates such as shrimp and snails.
• Avoid: Coral-nipping fish such as angelfish or butterflyfish that may damage polyps.
• Caution With: Fast-growing soft corals or algae that may overgrow shaded areas and block water flow.

Stylaster coexists well with most non-aggressive reef life when properly spaced.

Growth Rate and Propagation

• Growth Rate: Slow, forming delicate, branching skeletons over time.
• Propagation: Difficult—requires precise fragging and careful handling.

How to Frag Stylaster Coral:

1. Use a fine coral saw or rotary tool to make clean cuts along branching lines.
2. Avoid crushing or snapping branches, as this can cause tissue loss.
3. Mount frags in shaded, low-light areas with moderate flow to promote recovery.

Propagation should only be attempted by experienced reefers due to Stylaster’s fragility.

Common Diseases and How to Prevent Them

• Tissue Necrosis: Caused by poor flow, overexposure to light, or lack of feeding.
• Algae Overgrowth: Occurs when lighting or nutrients are too high.
• Bacterial Infections: May result from handling damage or dirty tools.

To prevent disease:

• Maintain consistent feeding and flow.
• Keep light exposure minimal.
• Avoid physical contact during maintenance.

Handling and Acclimation

• Drip acclimation over 45 minutes is ideal for temperature and salinity adjustment.
• Handle gently by the rock base or skeleton, avoiding direct pressure on branches.

Stylaster does not tolerate abrupt parameter swings, so careful acclimation is vital.

Maintenance and Cleaning

• Conduct small weekly water changes (5–10%) to maintain nutrient balance.
• Avoid direct cleaning—use a turkey baster to gently remove detritus or film algae.
• Consider using a UV sterilizer to reduce bacterial and algae growth in nutrient-rich environments.

Signs of Stress and How to Address Them

• Tissue Loss or Bleaching: Too much light or insufficient feeding—relocate to shaded area and increase feeding.
• Algae Covering Branches: Reduce lighting intensity and nutrients.
• Weak Polyp Extension: Check for poor flow or food scarcity.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

• Slow Tissue Growth: Increase feeding frequency and ensure consistent plankton dosing.
• Algae Competition: Keep low light and use manual cleaning as needed.
• Tissue Recession After Fragging: Place in low-stress conditions for recovery.