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The Ultimate Zoanthid Care Guide: Lighting, Flow & Feeding Explained
A complete guide to keeping your zoanthids thriving with proper lighting, flow, placement, water chemistry, and feeding.
Learn how to care for zoanthids with expert tips on lighting, flow, feeding, placement, and water chemistry. Perfect for beginners and collectors.
by scott Shiles • December 02, 2025
Zoanthids—commonly known as zoas—are among the most colorful and versatile corals in the reef hobby. Their hardiness, rapid growth, and endless color morphs make them one of the most popular choices for both beginners and serious collectors. But while zoas are forgiving, they still require balanced lighting, stable water chemistry, and proper placement to truly thrive.
This guide breaks down everything you need to know to achieve explosive growth, vibrant coloration, and long-term success with your zoanthid colonies.
What Are Zoanthids?
Zoanthids are colonial soft corals that grow in mats or clusters, with each polyp capable of forming new heads as conditions allow. Their appeal lies in:
- Intense colors (reds, blues, greens, rainbows, metallics)
- High adaptability
- Wide availability of designer morphs
- Fast-growing nature
- Perfect for nano tanks and large reefs alike
🔆 Lighting Requirements for Zoanthids
Zoanthids can adapt to a broad range of lighting, from low PAR to high-intensity SPS-level light, but most thrive in:
- PAR range: 80–150
- Spectrum: Blue-heavy lighting (typical reef LEDs in the 14k–20k range)
- Photoperiod: 8–10 hours of full intensity with a 1-hour ramp-up/ramp-down
Signs Your Zoanthids Need More Light
- Colors appear dull or washed out
- Polyps stretch upward (“reaching for light”)
- Slow growth
Signs of Too Much Light
- Polyps stay tight and small
- Loss of color or bleaching
- Polyps failing to open
❗ Tip: Start new zoa frags in low–moderate light and move them upward gradually over 2–3 weeks.
🌊 Flow Requirements
Zoanthids prefer moderate, indirect flow. Too much flow will cause the polyps to remain closed, while too little may trap detritus.
Ideal Flow:
- A gentle sway, not whipping movement
- Alternating or random flow (gyres, wavemakers)
- Enough movement to keep debris suspended
Avoid:
- Direct powerhead blast
- High-flow SPS zones
- Dead spots where detritus settles
📌 Zoanthid Placement Tips
Zoanthids are extremely versatile in placement:
- Best zones: lower–mid rockwork, frag racks, islands
- Avoid: extreme high light zones unless acclimated
- Spacing: allow for growth — many morphs spread rapidly
If you want them to grow into a mat or “zoa garden,” start on flat rock pieces that can be easily moved or shaped.
💧 Water Parameters for Zoanthids
Zoanthids thrive in stable reef conditions:
| Parameter | Ideal Range |
|---|---|
| Temperature | 77–78.5°F |
| Salinity | 1.025–1.026 |
| pH | 8.2–8.4 |
| Alkalinity | 8–9 dKH |
| Nitrates | 5–15 ppm |
| Phosphates | 0.03–0.10 ppm |
| Calcium | 420–450 ppm |
| Magnesium | 1300–1400 ppm |
Important Notes:
- Zoanthids like nutrients. Tanks with near-zero nitrates or phosphates often cause zoas to shrink or close.
- Stability matters more than perfection.
🍤 Feeding Zoanthids
Zoanthids get most of their energy from light, thanks to zooxanthellae, but feeding can greatly enhance:
✔ Color
✔ Growth rate
✔ Polyp extension
Recommended Foods:
- Reef Roids
- Coralific Delight
- Benereef
- Fine mysis or brine shrimp (for larger morphs)
Feed once or twice per week, target feeding gently with pumps turned off.
🦠 Common Zoanthid Problems
1. Zoanthids Not Opening
Causes include:
- Pests (nudibranchs, sundial snails, spiders)
- Poor water quality
- Too much/too little light
- Chemical warfare from nearby corals
2. Zoanthid Melting
Often caused by:
- Instability in nutrients
- Bacterial infections
- Drastic light changes
- Alkalinity swings
3. Pests
Always dip new zoas using:
- CoralRX
- Revive
- Lugol’s iodine
Inspect frags closely for eggs under the base.
🌱 Creating a Zoanthid Garden
A zoa garden is one of the most visually stunning aquascape features in a reef tank. To build one:
- Choose a low–moderate light zone.
- Use flat rock tiles or rubble.
- Start with 3–6 hardy morphs.
- Place frags 1–2 inches apart.
- Allow them to naturally spread into a vibrant patchwork.
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