Fragging corals is one of the most useful skills a reef keeper can learn, but it is also one of the easiest areas to get wrong if you rush the process. A clean, healthy frag can grow into a strong new coral colony, help control overgrowth, save healthy tissue from a damaged coral, or let you trade and share coral genetics with other hobbyists. A poorly cut frag, on the other hand, can lead to infection, tissue loss, slow healing, or the loss of a coral that should have been left alone.

Here at Extreme Corals, we have handled, cut, mounted, healed, photographed, and sold a tremendous number of coral frags over the years. Fragging is not just about breaking a piece off a coral. It is about knowing the coral type, understanding where the living tissue is, using the right tool, making the cleanest cut possible, protecting yourself, mounting the frag correctly, and giving the coral the right light, flow, and stability while it heals.

This guide is written as a practical, experience-based coral fragging guide for reef keepers who want to do it right. It covers why corals are fragged, when not to frag, safety gear, tools, how to frag soft corals, mushrooms, Zoanthids, LPS corals, SPS corals, chalices, Euphyllia, Acans, Favia-style corals, mounting methods, healing racks, aftercare, common mistakes, and what we look for in a healthy frag before it is ready to sell or move. If you would rather start with already healed pieces, browse our new arrival coral frags, new arrival corals, and Scott's Handpicked Corals.

What Does Fragging Corals Mean?

Fragging is the process of cutting, breaking, separating, or dividing a coral so that a smaller piece can heal and grow into a new coral colony. The word “frag” comes from “fragment.” In reef keeping, a frag is a smaller piece of a coral that has been mounted to a plug, disc, rock, tile, rubble, or other stable surface.

Coral fragging can be simple or advanced depending on the coral. Breaking a healthy branching SPS tip is very different from cutting a fleshy LPS coral. Separating Zoanthids is different from cutting a mushroom. Fragging a branching Hammer Coral is different from attempting to cut a wall Hammer Coral. The first rule is simple: the coral type determines the method.

Fragging can be used to:

• Grow new coral colonies
• Control coral overgrowth
• Save healthy tissue from a declining colony
• Share or trade corals with other reef keepers
• Preserve a coral strain or color morph
• Make space in a crowded reef tank
• Create backup frags of valuable corals
• Build a more sustainable coral collection over time

In our experience, the best coral frags come from healthy, established parent colonies. Fragging is much safer when the coral is already growing well and the reef tank is stable.

Why Fragging Is Important in Reef Keeping

Fragging is one of the reasons the modern reef aquarium hobby has become more sustainable and more accessible. When corals are propagated successfully in aquariums, hobbyists can grow, trade, sell, and share coral strains without relying only on newly collected wild colonies.

Fragging also helps reef keepers manage their aquariums. Corals grow. They shade each other, sting each other, compete for space, and sometimes outgrow the area where they were originally placed. A reef tank that is not trimmed or managed can become overcrowded, especially with fast-growing soft corals, plating Montipora, branching SPS, Zoanthids, and Euphyllia colonies.

Here at Extreme Corals, we look at fragging as both a husbandry skill and a responsibility. When done correctly, fragging can keep corals healthier, preserve genetics, and help reef keepers build better tanks. When done carelessly, it can damage coral tissue and create preventable losses.

When You Should Frag a Coral

The best time to frag a coral is when it is healthy, established, and actively growing. A coral that is already stressed should not be cut unless you are trying to save healthy tissue from a damaged or dying area. Even then, rescue fragging should be done carefully because the coral is already weakened.

Good reasons to frag include:

• The coral has outgrown its space.
• The coral is shading or crowding nearby corals.
• A branching coral has healthy growth that can be safely removed.
• You want to create backup frags of a valuable colony.
• A colony is beginning to touch or sting another coral.
• You are trimming fast-growing soft corals, Zoanthids, or mushrooms.
• You are saving healthy tissue from a damaged colony.

Healthy parent colonies heal better. If a coral is open, colorful, stable, and growing, it is much more likely to recover well after fragging.

When You Should Not Frag a Coral

Just because a coral can be fragged does not mean it should be fragged today. Timing matters. Fragging a weak coral can make the problem worse. Fragging a newly shipped coral before it settles can create unnecessary stress. Fragging during a tank instability event can lead to poor healing.

Avoid fragging when:

• The coral is newly shipped or recently added.
• The coral is already shrinking, melting, or receding.
• The tank has unstable salinity, alkalinity, or temperature.
• You recently had a major equipment failure.
• The coral is showing brown jelly, infection, or pest irritation.
• You do not have the right tools ready.
• You do not have a proper healing area prepared.
• You are unsure where the living tissue begins and ends.

In our experience, waiting a few weeks for a coral to become healthier is often better than cutting it too early. Fragging should be planned, not impulsive.

Coral Fragging Safety: Protect Yourself First

Coral fragging is not just about protecting the coral. You also need to protect yourself. Some corals can release mucus, slime, toxins, or irritants when cut. Zoanthids and Palythoa are especially important because some can contain palytoxin, which should be taken seriously.

Basic coral fragging safety gear includes:

• Nitrile gloves or reef-safe protective gloves
• Eye protection
• A clean work area
• Good ventilation
• Paper towels or clean towels
• Separate containers of tank water
• Clean tools used only for aquarium work

Important safety habits include:

• Never boil live rock, coral rock, Zoanthids, or Palythoa.
• Do not cut Zoanthids or Palythoa near your face.
• Do not touch your eyes or mouth while fragging.
• Wash your hands and tools after the work is done.
• Keep pets and children away from the fragging area.
• Use eye protection when cutting skeletons or using rotary tools.

Safety is not overkill. Experienced reef keepers take it seriously because one careless moment can cause injury.

Tools You Need to Frag Corals

The right tool depends on the coral. A soft coral may need scissors or a scalpel. A branching SPS coral may need bone cutters. A thick LPS skeleton may require a coral saw. Using the wrong tool can crush skeletons, tear tissue, or create rough cuts that heal poorly.

Common coral fragging tools include:

• Bone cutters for branching SPS and some branching LPS corals
• Coral saw or diamond band saw for precise LPS and chalice cuts
• Scalpels or razor blades for soft corals and mushrooms
• Sharp scissors for some soft corals
• Frag plugs, discs, rubble, or tiles
• Reef-safe cyanoacrylate gel glue
• Reef-safe epoxy for heavier pieces
• Containers of tank water for rinsing and holding frags
• Turkey baster or pipette for cleaning debris
• Iodine-style coral dip or appropriate coral dip when needed
• Frag rack or low-stress healing area

Keep tools clean and sharp. A clean cut usually heals better than a crushed or torn cut. In our experience, many fragging problems start with dull cutters, rushed cuts, or trying to break skeletons by force instead of cutting them properly.

How to Set Up a Fragging Work Area

Before you cut anything, prepare the work area. Do not wait until the coral is out of the tank to start looking for glue, plugs, tools, or containers. Corals should spend as little time stressed as reasonably possible.

A good fragging setup includes:

• One container of tank water for holding the coral
• One container of clean tank water for rinsing
• Prepared frag plugs or rubble
• Glue and epoxy opened and ready
• Clean cutting tools within reach
• Protective gloves and eyewear
• A frag rack or healing area ready in the tank

Plan every cut before you make it. Know where the coral will be cut, where the frag will be mounted, and where it will heal afterward. The more prepared you are, the less stress you put on the coral.

Step-by-Step Coral Fragging Process

The exact method changes by coral type, but the general fragging process follows the same basic structure.

Step 1: Choose a Healthy Parent Coral

Start with a coral that is healthy, established, and growing. Look for good color, polyp extension, tissue coverage, and no signs of disease or pests.

Step 2: Prepare Tools and Frag Plugs

Get all tools ready before removing the coral. Place plugs, rubble, glue, and containers where they can be reached easily.

Step 3: Remove the Coral if Needed

Some corals can be fragged in place, but many are safer to remove and work on in a container of tank water. This allows better visibility and cleaner cuts.

Step 4: Make the Cleanest Cut Possible

Cut through skeleton when fragging stony corals and avoid cutting through fleshy tissue unless the coral type requires it. For soft corals, cut cleanly with a sharp blade or scissors.

Step 5: Rinse the Frag

Rinse the frag in clean tank water to remove slime, debris, bone dust, or damaged tissue. This helps reduce irritation before mounting.

Step 6: Mount the Frag

Use reef-safe super glue gel, epoxy, rubble, or plugs depending on the coral type. Make sure the frag is secure but not crushed.

Step 7: Place the Frag in a Healing Area

New frags usually do best in moderate or slightly reduced light and appropriate indirect flow. Avoid blasting fresh cuts with direct current.

Step 8: Watch Healing Closely

Monitor the frag for recession, infection, detachment, melting, pests, or algae growth around the cut. Stable water and low stress are key.

How to Frag SPS Corals

SPS corals such as Acropora, Montipora, Birdsnest, Stylophora, and Pocillopora are often fragged by cutting or snapping branches, plates, or encrusted growth. SPS fragging is usually cleaner than many fleshy LPS cuts because the tissue is thinner and the skeleton is more exposed.

For branching SPS:

• Choose a healthy branch with good color and tissue.
• Use clean bone cutters to cut the branch cleanly.
• Avoid crushing the tissue near the cut.
• Glue the base of the frag to a plug or tile.
• Place in strong but indirect flow after healing begins.
• Start with appropriate light and avoid sudden light shock.

For plating Montipora:

• Break or cut a healthy plate section.
• Mount securely to a plug or rock.
• Keep the frag stable so it can encrust.
• Provide good indirect flow to prevent detritus buildup.

SPS frags need stable alkalinity. If your alkalinity is swinging, fix that before cutting or adding more SPS. Browse our SPS corals if your tank is ready for more advanced stony coral growth.

How to Frag Branching LPS Corals

Branching LPS corals such as branching Hammer Coral, Frogspawn Coral, Candy Cane Coral, and some branching Euphyllia-style corals can often be fragged by cutting the skeleton below the living tissue. The key is to cut far enough away from flesh to avoid damaging the polyp.

For branching LPS corals:

• Only frag healthy, established colonies.
• Identify where the living tissue ends.
• Cut the branch below the tissue with bone cutters or a saw.
• Do not cut through inflated flesh.
• Rinse the frag in clean tank water.
• Place in moderate indirect flow while healing.
• Watch carefully for brown jelly or recession.

In our experience, branching Hammer and Frogspawn corals are much more practical to frag than wall forms. If you are not confident, do not cut an expensive Euphyllia colony without practice and the right tool.

How to Frag Wall LPS Corals

Wall LPS corals are much more difficult to frag than branching corals. Wall Hammer Corals, some wall Frogspawn Corals, certain brain corals, and other continuous-tissue LPS corals can be risky because one cut may damage a long shared tissue band. If infection or recession starts, it can sometimes travel across the colony.

Wall LPS fragging should usually be left to experienced reef keepers with proper cutting tools. A coral saw is often safer than trying to snap or crush the skeleton with cutters.

Wall LPS fragging risks include:

• Tearing continuous tissue
• Crushing skeleton under living flesh
• Triggering recession along the cut
• Increasing brown jelly risk
• Creating frags that heal slowly or poorly

Here at Extreme Corals, we treat wall LPS corals with more caution. Just because a coral can technically be cut does not mean it is a good beginner fragging project.

How to Frag Chalice Corals

Chalice corals can be fragged, but they require precision. Many chalices have thin plating skeletons and living tissue spread across the surface. A clean saw cut is usually better than snapping. Cutting through eyes, mouths, or active growth zones can reduce healing success.

Chalice fragging tips:

• Use a coral saw when possible.
• Cut pieces with healthy tissue and at least one eye when possible.
• Avoid crushing the skeleton.
• Rinse away bone dust after cutting.
• Give frags low to moderate light and gentle indirect flow.
• Keep them away from aggressive neighboring corals.

Chalice corals can be aggressive, and fresh frags should be placed where they will not be stung while healing.

How to Frag Acan, Favia and Brain-Style Corals

Acan-style corals, Favia, Favites, and other brain-style LPS corals must be fragged with attention to mouths, tissue valleys, and skeleton structure. These are not corals you should crush apart with pliers. A saw is usually the better tool for clean, controlled cuts.

For these corals:

• Cut between polyps when possible.
• Avoid slicing directly through mouths if you can.
• Use a coral saw for cleaner results.
• Rinse away skeleton dust.
• Place frags in moderate indirect flow.
• Watch for recession along the cut edge.

These corals often heal well when cut correctly, but rough cuts can lead to tissue damage and slow recovery.

How to Frag Zoanthids and Palythoa

Zoanthids and Palythoa can be propagated by cutting or separating mat tissue, but this group requires extra safety precautions. Some Palythoa and Zoanthid colonies may contain palytoxin, so gloves, eye protection, and careful handling are important.

Zoanthid fragging tips:

• Wear gloves and eye protection.
• Work in a clean, ventilated area.
• Use a scalpel or razor to remove a small mat section.
• Try to keep some substrate attached when possible.
• Glue the mat or attached rubble to a plug.
• Do not crush polyps.
• Place in moderate light and moderate indirect flow.

Never boil Zoanthid or Palythoa rock. Do not scrub them aggressively near your face. Treat them with respect. Browse our Zoanthids if you enjoy colorful polyp gardens but want healthy pieces already prepared for reef aquariums.

How to Frag Mushroom Corals

Mushroom corals such as Discosoma, Rhodactis, Ricordea, and bounce mushrooms can be propagated by cutting, splitting, or allowing loose tissue to attach to rubble. However, expensive collector mushrooms should be handled carefully because a mistake can cost you both money and the coral.

Mushroom fragging methods include:

• Letting mushrooms split naturally
• Cutting through the mushroom with a clean blade
• Dividing a mushroom into halves or quarters when appropriate
• Using rubble containers for loose pieces
• Allowing tissue remnants to form new mushrooms

Loose mushroom pieces should not be glued directly through soft tissue. Instead, place them in a low-flow container with rubble so they can attach naturally. High-value bounce mushrooms and rare Rhodactis should not be rushed. For more mushroom care, read our Rhodactis vs Discosoma mushroom comparison guide.

How to Frag Leather Corals and Other Soft Corals

Leather corals, Kenya Tree corals, and many other soft corals can be fragged with scissors, a scalpel, or a clean blade. Soft corals can slime heavily after cutting, so good water movement and rinsing are helpful.

Soft coral fragging tips:

• Cut healthy tissue with a sharp tool.
• Rinse the frag in tank water.
• Attach with rubber bands, toothpicks, mesh, or rubble containers depending on the coral.
• Avoid tying too tightly and cutting through tissue.
• Provide moderate indirect flow.
• Watch for melting or bacterial issues.

Some soft corals do not glue easily because they produce slime. In those cases, gentle attachment methods may work better than forcing glue onto wet soft tissue.

Mounting Coral Frags Correctly

A frag that is cut well but mounted poorly can still fail. The frag should be secure enough that snails, fish, flow, or handling do not knock it loose. At the same time, the mounting method should not crush living tissue.

Common mounting methods include:

• Super glue gel: Best for many SPS, small LPS skeleton bases, Zoanthid rubble, and encrusting frags.
• Epoxy: Useful for heavier frags or larger rocks, often combined with glue.
• Rubble containers: Best for loose mushrooms and soft corals that need to attach naturally.
• Rubber bands or mesh: Useful for some soft corals that slime too much for glue.
• Frag plugs or discs: Easy to move, heal, photograph, and place on racks.

Dry the skeleton or plug contact point slightly with a clean towel when using glue. Do not dry living coral tissue. Use enough glue to secure the frag, but do not bury tissue in glue.

Where to Place Fresh Coral Frags

Fresh frags need a healing area that matches the coral’s needs but avoids extremes. Many newly cut frags should not be placed under maximum light or direct flow immediately after cutting.

Good healing conditions often include:

• Stable salinity and temperature
• Moderate or slightly reduced lighting
• Appropriate indirect flow
• Clean water with balanced nutrients
• No aggressive coral neighbors
• Stable frag rack or secure rock placement
• Low handling after placement

Use the coral type as your guide. SPS frags need more flow than mushrooms. Fresh chalice frags need gentler conditions than Acropora. Euphyllia frags need enough flow to stay clean but not so much that tissue tears.

For placement help, review our coral placement guide, reef tank lighting guide, and water flow guide.

Water Parameters for Healing Coral Frags

Fresh frags heal best in stable reef water. This is not the time for major parameter swings, sudden lighting changes, aggressive nutrient stripping, or unstable salinity.

Different coral systems may run slightly different nutrient levels, but stability is the priority. A frag can usually tolerate a reasonable number if it is stable. It may struggle if parameters are swinging every few days.

How Long Do Coral Frags Take to Heal?

Healing time depends on the coral type, cut quality, water conditions, light, flow, and overall coral health. Some soft corals attach or recover within a week or two. Some LPS and chalice frags may take several weeks to look fully settled. SPS frags may show polyp extension quickly but take longer to encrust onto a plug.

General healing expectations:

• Soft corals: Often 1-3 weeks depending on attachment and slime response.
• Mushrooms: Often 1-4 weeks to attach and settle, sometimes longer for collector pieces.
• Zoanthids: Often begin reopening within days if healthy, but mat growth takes longer.
• Branching SPS: May show extension quickly, but encrusting can take weeks.
• Branching LPS: Often several weeks for full confidence after cutting.
• Chalice and brain-style LPS: Can take several weeks or longer to heal cut edges.

A healed frag should look stable, not just freshly glued. Good color, polyp extension, clean tissue, no recession, and new encrusting or attachment are signs the frag is doing well.

Signs a Coral Frag Is Healing Well

A healthy healing frag should show steady improvement. It may slime, retract, or look irritated immediately after cutting, but it should not continue declining day after day.

Good healing signs include:

• Polyp extension returning
• Tissue staying attached to the skeleton
• No spreading recession
• No brown jelly or slimy decay
• Color staying stable
• Frag remaining securely attached
• New encrusting growth on plug or rubble
• Soft corals attaching naturally

If a frag is slowly improving, give it time. Do not keep moving it unless there is a clear problem. Constant handling is one of the easiest ways to slow healing.

Warning Signs After Fragging

Fresh coral frags should be watched closely. Problems caught early are easier to manage than problems ignored for a week.

Warning signs include:

• Rapid tissue recession
• Brown jelly or slimy decay
• Bleaching after placement
• Tissue peeling away from skeleton
• Frag detaching repeatedly
• Algae growing over fresh cuts
• Closed polyps that never reopen
• Soft corals melting instead of attaching

If you see these signs, check flow, light, salinity, alkalinity, pests, and whether the frag is being irritated by fish, invertebrates, or neighboring corals.

Common Coral Fragging Mistakes

Most fragging mistakes are avoidable with planning and patience.

• Fragging unhealthy corals: Weak corals heal poorly.
• Using dull tools: Crushing tissue causes more damage than clean cutting.
• Cutting through fleshy LPS tissue: Many LPS corals should be cut through skeleton away from living tissue.
• Skipping safety gear: Gloves and eye protection matter.
• Blasting fresh frags with flow: Direct flow can damage healing tissue.
• Putting fresh frags under too much light: Light shock slows recovery.
• Over-gluing tissue: Glue should secure the frag, not smother living coral.
• Moving frags constantly: Stability helps healing.
• Ignoring pests: Fresh cuts and weak tissue are vulnerable.

In our experience, the best fraggers are not the fastest. They are the most controlled. They know when to cut, where to cut, and when to leave a coral alone.

Should Beginners Frag Corals?

Yes, beginners can learn coral fragging, but they should start with easier corals and avoid expensive or difficult pieces. Do not make your first fragging attempt on a rare torch, collector mushroom, wall Hammer Coral, or expensive chalice.

Good beginner fragging candidates may include:

• Fast-growing soft corals
• Some leather corals
• Zoanthids with proper safety precautions
• Basic mushroom corals
• Green Star Polyps on removable rock
• Simple branching SPS in stable systems

Corals beginners should approach carefully include:

• Wall Euphyllia corals
• High-end Torch Corals
• Collector bounce mushrooms
• Expensive chalices
• Fleshy open brain corals
• Any coral that is already declining

Learning on lower-risk corals builds confidence and protects your best pieces.

Fragging Corals for Growth Control

Fragging is often necessary in mature reef tanks because corals eventually compete for space. A reef tank that looks perfect today can become crowded six months from now. Growth control is part of long-term reef keeping.

Corals that may need growth control include:

• Green Star Polyps
• Pulsing Xenia
• Zoanthids
• Mushroom corals
• Montipora caps
• Branching SPS corals
• Euphyllia colonies
• Fast-growing soft corals

Do not wait until corals are damaging each other before trimming. If a coral is about to grow into another coral’s space, plan the fragging before aggression or shading becomes a problem. Our coral aggression guide can help with spacing decisions.

Rescue Fragging: Saving Healthy Tissue

Sometimes fragging is used to save a coral instead of propagate it. If a coral is receding, damaged, or infected in one area, healthy tissue may be cut away from the problem area and mounted separately. This is called rescue fragging.

Rescue fragging may be considered when:

• A colony has localized tissue recession.
• One section is damaged but another section is healthy.
• Brown jelly or infection is threatening a colony.
• A coral has been stung on one side.
• A large colony is declining from a damaged area.

Rescue fragging is not guaranteed. The coral is already stressed, so success depends on acting quickly, cutting cleanly, isolating healthy tissue, and correcting the cause of the problem.

How to Know When a Frag Is Ready to Sell, Trade or Move

A fresh-cut frag is not the same as a healed frag. At Extreme Corals, we care about whether a coral looks stable and healthy before it is moved, photographed, or sold. A frag that was cut yesterday may not be ready just because it is glued to a plug.

A frag is more ready when:

• It has reopened normally.
• The cut edge is clean and not receding.
• It is attached securely.
• It shows stable color.
• There is no brown jelly or tissue loss.
• It has begun encrusting or healing over the cut area.
• It responds normally to light and flow.

Customers do better with healed, stable frags. That is why rushing fresh cuts out the door is not good practice. Healthy frags build trust and lead to better reef keeping results.

Related Coral Fragging and Reef Care Guides

If you are learning how to frag corals, these related guides and coral categories can help you build a stronger foundation:

• New Arrival Coral Frags - Browse healthy coral frags for your reef tank.
• New Arrival Corals - Shop recently added live corals.
• Scott's Handpicked Corals - Explore standout pieces selected for color and quality.
• Coral Placement Guide - Learn where to place frags after cutting.
• Reef Tank Lighting Guide - Understand light acclimation and PAR for healing corals.
• Water Flow and Coral Health - Improve flow for healing and growth.
• Reef Tank Water Parameters Guide - Keep chemistry stable after fragging.
• Coral Quarantine Guide - Protect your tank from pests before adding new frags.

Shop Healthy Coral Frags

Fragging corals can be one of the most rewarding parts of reef keeping when it is done with patience, clean tools, proper safety, and respect for the coral. Whether you are trimming growth, saving a colony, or learning propagation, the goal is always the same: create a healthy frag that can heal, grow, and become a strong coral colony.

If you want healthy frags without cutting your own corals yet, browse our new arrival coral frags, new arrival corals, LPS corals, SPS corals, soft corals, and Zoanthids at ExtremeCorals.com.

Frequently Asked Questions About Fragging Corals

Is fragging corals safe?

Fragging corals can be safe when done with clean tools, proper technique, gloves, eye protection, and stable aquarium conditions. Some corals require extra caution, especially Zoanthids and Palythoa.

What corals are easiest to frag?

Many soft corals, mushrooms, Zoanthids, Green Star Polyps, and some branching SPS corals are easier to frag than fleshy LPS, wall corals, chalices, and collector mushrooms.

How long do coral frags take to heal?

Healing time depends on the coral. Soft corals may heal or attach within 1-3 weeks, while LPS, chalice, SPS, and mushroom frags may take several weeks or longer to fully stabilize.

Can beginners frag corals?

Yes, beginners can frag corals, but they should start with easier, lower-risk corals and avoid expensive or delicate pieces until they have experience.

What tools do I need to frag corals?

Common tools include bone cutters, scissors, scalpels, coral saws, frag plugs, reef-safe glue gel, epoxy, containers of tank water, gloves, and eye protection.

Should I dip corals after fragging?

A coral dip may be helpful in some situations, but it depends on the coral type and condition. Always follow product directions and avoid over-stressing freshly cut corals.

Why did my coral frag die after cutting?

A coral frag may fail because the parent coral was unhealthy, the cut was rough, tissue was damaged, flow or light was too harsh, water parameters were unstable, or infection developed after fragging.

Can I glue soft corals to plugs?

Some soft corals do not glue well because they slime heavily. Rubber bands, mesh, toothpicks, rubble containers, or natural attachment methods may work better depending on the coral.

Can I frag LPS corals?

Many LPS corals can be fragged, especially branching forms, but fleshy LPS and wall corals require more care and often a coral saw for clean cuts.

When is a coral frag ready to sell or trade?

A coral frag is more ready when it has reopened, healed at the cut edge, stayed attached, maintained color, shown no recession or infection, and appears stable over time.

About the Author

Scott Shiles is the owner of ExtremeCorals.com, which he has operated for over 25 years and is recognized as one of the early dedicated live coral websites on the internet. A lifelong reef keeper since 1984, Scott has decades of hands-on experience maintaining marine aquariums and previously owned and operated a brick and mortar aquarium retail store for 10 years, including five years alongside Extreme Corals. He holds a degree in Marine Biology and has personally selected and sold hundreds of thousands of live corals. An avid scuba diver who has explored reef systems around the world, Scott shares practical coral care and husbandry knowledge based on real world reef experience.